Drink This: Usonia Wines 2022 Cabernet Franc

A uniquely delicious take on Finger Lakes cabernet franc

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Usonia Wines, which opened its tasting room earlier this year on Cayuga Lake, has made some of the cabernet franc and blaufränkisch-based wines that I’ve looked forward to tasting most over the past few vintages.

I guess these qualify as “natural wines” if you care about such labels (I don’t) because owners Julia and Alex Alvarez-Perez take a more hands-off approach to winemaking.

I also love their approach to blending and experimental style. They don’t get hung up on vinifera vs. hybrid vs. natives. I mean, they are selling a blend of merlot, cabernet franc, grüner veltliner, tocai friulano, Chancellor, and Verdelet right now.

I’m particularly fond of their take on Finger Lakes cabernet franc, and this Usonia Wines 2022 Cabernet Franc ($28*) might be the best so far. It deftly straddles the fruity-savory line that makes cabernet franc terrific and terrific with food.

Dark fruit aromas — black raspberry, blackberry, and black cherry — mingle with savory notes of sundried tomato and herb garden, with subtle earthiness lingering behind. Those dark, brambly fruits burst on a juicy, flavorful, medium-bodied palate. Similar savory accents show up at the edges and there is a minerally vein right up the middle. The tannins are soft, but there is enough acidity to keep things fresh.

The finish is long and bounces between fruity and savory — just like I like it.

Usonia Wines 2022 Cabernet Franc
Region: Finger Lakes AVA (New York)
ABV: 13%
RS: 0 g/L
TA: 6.5 g/L
pH: 3.71
Winemaking: 50% whole cluster, neutral oak aging
Rating: 90 pts
Price: $28* (Available here)

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*sample submitted by winery