Is Cabernet Franc the Way Forward for New York?
"Signature variety" projects are difficult to sustain, often with minimal impact – but Cab Franc Forward picked the right grape and that's a good start
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I’m heading to Manhattan tomorrow to attend Cab Franc Forward’s grand tasting at The Prince George Ballroom (public session tickets are available here).
As much as I tend to enjoy my sometimes-near-hermit status, I’m looking forward to it. After the New York Wine & Grape Foundation gave up on their “NY Drinks NY” program, it’s great that a large group of New York’s top producers will be in the same place at the same time pouring wines for New Yorkers.
I’ve been writing about New York (and East Coast) wines long enough to have strong opinions on the whole idea of a region needing or wanting a “signature variety.” Or maybe it’s not so much about having a signature variety as much as it is about building organizations and campaigns around them.
Different groups have tried different grapes and projects before.
There was the now-defunct Long Island Merlot Alliance (LIMA) on Long Island. In the Finger Lakes, FLX Riesling Camp is still a thing, but it’s not as laser focused on riesling as the name might lead you to believe. The Hudson Valley has its own cabernet franc-focused organization that is still semi-active. Down in Virginia, they’ve tried to put viognier on a pedestal it was never ready for many years ago.
Please don’t get me wrong. These organizations and events were and are built from a good place — wanting to promote local wine and bring more attention to the unique deliciousness they offer.
But none of them have significantly moved the needle.
LIMA is no more. Virginia has moved on to other potential signature grapes. I know they tried to make Virginia tannat the star at one point, but I’m not sure what the focus is now. FLX Riesling Camp always attracts a good group of sommeliers, shop owners, and other trade folks to the region, but the winery participants I’ve talked to don’t report big, long-term buys once those people return to their day jobs buying or writing about wine. The Hudson Valley Cabernet Franc Coalition doesn’t do much outside a tasting or two per year in the Hudson Valley, where the audience is limited.
I’ve long thought that the diversity of local wine is its greatest strength, but I fully understand the concept of latching onto a single grape. A simpler marketing message is often easier to send and receive.
But the real challenge is reaching the “general public” or “typical wine drinker,” and many of these events and organizations fall short of that goal.
When I walk into that ballroom tomorrow, I’ll know at least 75% of the people there — the people pouring and the attendees. It’ll be mostly the same writers and trade people who already know and support New York wines. My guess is that many of the people attending the public portion of the grand tasting are already New York wine enthusiasts, too.
That’s obviously okay. It’s important for wineries to reconnect with their fans in New York City in their hometown and continue to build and nurture those relationships, but what is the long-term impact? It may be minimal. These events are also extremely expensive to put on and the organization isn’t going to get rich hosting them.
That all said, Cab Franc Forward has at least chosen the right grape to focus on. Cabernet Franc is the signature variety of New York State — whether any organization says so or not. It doesn’t need to be named; it just is. There are consistently great examples being made in each of the state’s grape-growing regions, and have been for many years. That can’t be said about riesling or merlot or any other grape in the same way.
Frankly, cabernet franc is the signature variety for the entire East Coast. No other grape shines brighter up and down the coast and west to places like Michigan and Ohio. That’s another discussion for another day, however.
I know what you’re thinking. “Lenn, why are you being so negative here?” I don’t mean to be — but you know I’m always honest. Sometimes too honest.
I want efforts like Cab Franc Forward to succeed. If they do, it’s would be great for New York wines and my many friends in and around the industry. You hear much about sustainability in the wine community, but it’s always about vineyard practices. True sustainability is only possible when there is demand for the wines and they are selling. Financial sustainability is paramount.
Cab Franc Forward is a new project started by producers making some of New York’s best cabernet Franc — Boundary Breaks, Fjord Vineyards, Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard, Macari Vineyards, Milea Estate Vineyard, Paumanok Vineyards, Wolffer Estate, and a producer that is new to me, Old Sound Vineyard. Those wineries also happen to have some of the best wine marketers in the state working for them. If any group can make it work, I think it’ll be this one.
Tomorrow, I’m looking forward to tasting what’s being poured. In addition to Old Sound, Elysabeth Vineyards in the Hudson Valley is completely new to me. I hope to not only taste the wines but also meet and get to know the owners. Some producers that I haven’t tasted in years will also be pouring — places like Clovis Point, Onabay Vineyards, Roanoke Vineyards, and Red Hook Winery.
I’m also excited to try new releases and barrel samples from some of the state’s best wineries, but the opportunity to taste some older wines is also a big draw.
Dr. Konstantin Frank will be pouring a 2010 and a 2015, and Wiemer will be pouring a 2014. McCall will have 2014 and 2015 cabernet franc available, as well as 2015 Ben’s Blend—which is always a favorite. Millbrook will have a 2006 there. Wolffer is bringing its 2005 Caya Cabernet Franc in magnum. That’s going to be a lot of fun to taste.
I’ll report back soon!
*Sample Provided by Winery