Wine of the Week: Dear Native Grapes NV Hudson Valley Heirloom Series

January 14, 2025: Two heritage varieties – Burdin and Annie Noir – combine to create a uniquely delicious red wine that, frankly, defies vinifera comparison

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I understand why it’s done—by winemakers and writers alike—but I don’t like it when hybrid and native grape varieties are compared too closely to better-known grapes.

“LaCrescent is like riesling!” Except it’s really not other than being a white wine grape that is often made into off-dry wine.

“Itasca is cold-climate sauvignon blanc!” No. No, it’s not. Again, except it’s white and not LaCrescent, which is like riesling, dummy.

“Noiret is like syrah!” Okay, I don’t think I've ever actually heard this one. No one would talk so badly about syrah like that.

Like I said, I understand it. You want to give someone who has never tasted a new grape some context, a starting point for their enjoyment. Except the new grape rarely lives up to those artificial expectations. It’s not because wines from “other” grapes can’t be great, but because they are just different.

I could tell you that Dear Native Grapes NV Hudson Valley Heirloom Series ($27*), a blend of Burdin and Annie Noir, is “like pinot noir” but that’s only true in its color and blend of fruity and earthy qualities. And it’s not like pinot noir is the only red wine that can be earthy, right?

This is a wine made from grapes that, in the right hands, stand on their own. In this instance, the grapes were in perhaps the best hands possible. They were grown by former Hudson-Chatham Winery winemaker J. Stephen “Steve” Casscles in his home vineyard. Steve has literally written the book on grapes like these and he grows many varieties that no one else does. Deanna Urciuoli and Alfie Alcántara’s Dear Native Grapes is a really cool project that is worth keeping an eye on as their own vines come online. They worked with Steve to bring this wine to market.

There is a distinctly earthy edge to mostly red and sour cherry fruit aromas with subtle layers of cinnamon candy spice, blueberry jam, and something almost tropical. I think that tropical note comes from the Annie Noir, but I’ve only ever had one other example, so I can’t be sure.

Lighter-bodied but plenty flavorful, the palate brings more cherry and blueberry fruit with spice, earth, and flowal notes. It’s low in tannin but plenty fresh enough with juicy acidity.

As it sits in the glass—and particularly the next day—a savory sage note peeks through that I really enjoyed.

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Dear Native Grapes NV Hudson Valley Heirloom Series
Region: Hudson River Region AVA (New York)
Grape(s): Burdin & Annie Noir
ABV: 11.9%
Rating: 90 pts
Price: $27* (Available Here)

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*Sample Provided by Winery