Wine of the Week: Millbrook Vineyards 2024 Estate Gamay Noir
Is gamay noir finding a home in the Hudson River Region AVA?
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Not unlike dry Finger Lakes riesling that is actually dry, New York gamay that truly tastes like gamay can be elusive. There isn’t much planted to begin with, and if you’re looking for wines that resemble those of Beaujolais (or even some of the impressive examples coming out of Ontario) the pickings are pretty slim.
I’m not sure whether that’s due to clonal selection, vineyard suitability, or simply winemaking decisions. There just aren’t that many New York gamays to explore and few of them excite me.
For years, the only New York gamay I consistently recommended came from Whitecliff Vineyard in the Hudson River Region AVA. Nearby Fjord Vineyards also produces a delicious example—and their gamay noir blanc even made an appearance in one of my recent wine club shipments.
After tasting Millbrook Vineyards 2024 Estate Gamay Noir ($26*), I’m starting to wonder if gamay might feel most at home in the Hudson Valley.
Bright, intense aromas of cranberry and red raspberry are lifted by delicate purple floral notes and a hint of savory spice. Medium-bodied, the palate is just as vibrant, with a focused beam of cranberry-raspberry fruit layered with additional spice and a touch of sweet herbs. Soft tannins and crunchy acidity frame the fruit beautifully, carrying through a long, fresh finish.
Served lightly chilled or closer to cellar temperature, this is the kind of versatile wine I love to pair with a wide range of foods. It’s fruit-forward and refreshing, but offers enough subtle complexity to keep things interesting.
I’m including it in my February wine club shipment — and setting a bottle aside for Thanksgiving.
Millbrook Vineyards 2024 Estate Gamay Noir
Region: Hudson River Region AVA (New York)
ABV: 12.5%
TA: 6.15 g/L
pH: 3.75
Grapes: 100% gamay noir
Winemaking: Aged 7 months in neutral French oak
Production: 100 cases
Rating: 91 pts
Price: $26*
*Sample provided by winery